On the image click to enlarge.
Especially the number of circuits at 80 m² to reconsider.
For high-performance equipment, extra circuits must be provided.
Washing machine, dishwasher, dryer, microwave... See the links page.
Quote originally posted by skycamefalling post show
Can I switch all outlets (about 15 pieces) within a circuit serial?
The line can be built from outlet to outlet. The circuit is not serial but parallel. If no devices with high power into these outlets will be operated, it is possible to connect them to a circuit. I wouldn't do it.
Write down all equipment, luminaires with power.
Quote originally posted by skycamefalling post show
The line will be up to 30m long at the longest point-wäre it 2 da sense, 5mm square to use wires or rich 1, 5 mm²?
The voltage drop is addressed here.
Since no details for the line up to the Distributor existence, no binding information provided.
If the supply lead to 0.5% voltage drop is designed, the following values for the final circuits are possible.
Cable Distributor last socket or connector on 2.5% voltage drop expected.
Fuse 10A
1, 5 mm² AC 24 m
1.5 mm 2 three-phase 49m
2, 5 mm² AC 40 m
2, 5 mm² AC 81m
13A fuse
1, 5 mm² AC 19 m
1.5 mm 2 three-phase 37m
2, 5 mm² AC 31
2, 5 mm² AC 62
Fuse 16A
1, 5 mm² AC 15 m
1.5 mm 2 three-phase 30m
2, 5 mm² AC 25
2, 5 mm² AC 51
Other values are extra.
Quote originally posted by skycamefalling post show
The lines on the one hand in hollow walls and in the ceiling between the insulation and plasterboard should be laid.
The load will be addressed here.
ABB has tables to do this.
In Germany, usually the table for 25 ° c can be applied.
Here is an unfavourable installation "Installation in insulated walls" to apply.
I choose here laying method A2
See table 3
More instructions in the PDF.
Quote originally posted by skycamefalling post show
...
With the light switches I turn on just the "live" wire, on the other hand, the lamps are also neutral and ground connected.
I should move there a 3 wire cable and also with neutral and the misuse of the light switch grounding or it would be better, with a 1-wire cable for the switch to use and the way back from the lamps to the fuse box a 2-core cable (neutral and grounding) directly to tread?
So away: 1 wire on the light switch.
RETURN: 2 wires directly from the consumer to the fuse box.
So, I would need a 2-wire cable, No 4-wire between the switches for the 2 planned Exchange circuits and save much cable anyway.
.
Sorry, I don't quite understand have your solution.
1-wire cable are not common for the switch.
The required wires in a wire, are different depending on the circuit and number of circuits.
There are 2 different installations.
1 With junction boxes
2 Switch boxes which can have extra terminal space and eliminates the need to junction boxes.
Solution 2 has the advantage that no wallpaper is damaged during troubleshooting.
A grounding conductor in the switch line is cheap.
-Draw a layout plan of the apartment
-Characters all switches and Sockets and lights a.
-The light and the switch give this the same number.
Then I can say more.
Standards to the bathroom
I think it is better to speak at a company and agree upon the possible equity performance.
Left especially measurements and connecting to an expert.
All possible standards and error can not be discussed in the Forum.
It takes 3.5 years training...
Greeting electric
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